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3D Print Troubleshooting, Calibration & Parts

Symptom diagnoser

What went wrong with your print?

Pick the symptom you can see on the plate. Every fix here is written against a specific failure mode, with the settings that actually change it.

3D print troubleshooting by symptom: a part that never stuck is an adhesion fault, gaps and thin lines are extrusion, and an offset part-way up is motion. 3D Print Troubleshooting: Find the Fault by What You Can See What to look for Three cheap things diagnose most of what follows. A tool kit with nozzle needles, tweezers and hex keys… ABS Not Sticking to Bed — A heat problem before an adhesion problem ABS Not Sticking to Bed: Chamber Heat First, Adhesive Second ABS not sticking to bed is a heat problem before it is an adhesion one. Chamber temperature, bed prep that survives 100 degrees, and when a brim is enough. ASA Warping — The enclosure is the fix, not a hotter bed ASA Warping: The Enclosure Is the Fix, Not a Hotter Bed ASA warping is solved by an enclosure, not by pushing the bed hotter. What chamber temperature it needs, why draughts crack layers, and when a brim helps. Diagram of a layer stack showing the seam print defect. Blobs, zits and a visible seam line A small defect where each layer starts and stops, stacked into a visible line. Diagram of a layer stack showing the crack print defect. Cracking and layer delamination Layers separate under load or on their own. Weak bonding from cold plastic or a cold chamber. Diagram showing overhang angle measured from vertical, with the 45 degree rule of thumb and a drooping unsupported edge. Drooping overhangs and failed bridges Plastic sags before it sets. Cooling and slower perimeters do most of the work. Diagram of a layer stack showing the foot print defect. Elephant foot on the bottom layer The first layers bulge outwards. Too much squish plus a bed hotter than it needs to be. Build plate pairings for first layer adhesion: PLA on PEI with no glue, PETG on textured PEI or smooth PEI with glue, ABS and ASA on smooth PEI with glue and a closed enclosure, TPU on textured PEI at low bed temperature. First Layer Not Sticking: What 3D Printer Bed Adhesion Depends On Nine times out of ten the plate is contaminated with skin oil, not badly levelled. Wash it before you touch the Z offset. Diagram of a layer stack showing the shift print defect. Layer shifting partway through a print Everything above a certain height is offset. Belts, grub screws or a speed the machine cannot hold. Diagram of a partially clogged nozzle showing debris restricting the melt zone above the nozzle orifice. Nozzle clogged: partial and complete blockages A partial clog degrades quality gradually; a complete one stops everything. The cold pull handles both. PETG Not Sticking to Bed — Usually the opposite problem to PLA PETG Not Sticking to Bed: Why It Is Usually the Opposite Problem PETG not sticking to bed is rarer than PETG sticking too hard. The nozzle gap it wants, why glue is a release layer here, and the temperatures that work. PETG Stringing — Normal for the material, not a fault PETG Stringing: Why It Strings More Than PLA, and What Fixes It PETG stringing more than PLA is normal, not a fault. Why the material oozes, the retraction numbers that work, and why drying it matters far more here. PLA Not Sticking to Bed — Four causes, in the order worth checking PLA Not Sticking to Bed: The Four Causes, in the Order to Check Them PLA not sticking to bed is almost never the filament. Four causes in the order worth checking: bed height, a dirty plate, first-layer speed, and draughts. PLA Stringing — Retraction and temperature, in that order PLA Stringing: Why Dry PLA Still Strings, and the Settings That Stop It PLA stringing is retraction and temperature, in that order, and dry filament still strings if the settings are wrong. A test you can run in eight minutes. PLA Warping — Uncommon enough to be a clue in itself PLA Warping: Rare Enough to Be a Clue in Itself PLA warping is uncommon enough to be a clue in itself: it points at a draught, a cold bed or a tall thin part, not at bad filament. What to change, in order. Diagram of a layer stack showing the detach print defect. Print detached mid-print and turned into spaghetti The part came off the plate and the nozzle kept extruding into air. Adhesion, warping or a knock. Diagram of a layer stack showing the ring print defect. Ringing and ghosting on vertical surfaces Echoes of a corner repeating across the wall. Mechanical vibration the frame cannot damp fast enough. Drying temperatures to cure stringing: PLA 4 hours at 55 C, PETG 4 hours at 65 C, ABS and ASA 4 hours at 80 C, TPU 6 hours at 55 C. Stringing and oozing between parts Fine hairs across gaps. Moisture first, temperature second, retraction third — in that order.
Not a print defect? Error codes  ·  Calibration  ·  Filament
HMS, MINTEMP, thermal runaway, homing failed

Error codes

All error codes →
Creality K1 Error 2524: Levelling Sensor Noise Too High Creality K1 error 2524 means the levelling sensor data was too noisy while stationary. That word makes the room around the printer a genuine suspect too. Creality K1 Error 2512: Main MCU Chip Temperature Abnormal Creality K1 error 2512 means the main controller reported its own temperature as abnormal. The board fan is the first and cheapest thing to check here. Creality K1 Error 2112: Movement Exceeds Maximum Extrusion Creality K1 error 2112 means a move exceeded the maximum extrusion cross section. Layer height and line width matter every bit as much as print speed. Creality K1 Error 2111: Extrusion Temperature Below Minimum Creality K1 error 2111 means the file asked to extrude below the 170 degree floor. The fix belongs in the slicer profile rather than in the printer firmware. Creality K1 Error 2090: Mainboard Overloaded Creality K1 error 2090 means the board ran out of time, not out of heat. Dense geometry at high speed causes most of them, so start with the file itself. Creality K1 Error 2056: Accelerometer Cannot Measure Data Creality K1 error 2056 means the accelerometer produced no usable data. Printing still works; what you lose is the tuning that makes the speed usable. Creality K1 Error 2020: Homing Error Creality K1 error 2020 is a homing failure and the message names the axis. X and Y share nothing with Z, so that one word decides where you look first. Creality K1 Error 508: Storage Space Nearly Full Creality K1 error 508 warns that internal storage is nearly full. The printer keeps every job you have ever run and never removes any of them for you. Creality K1 Error 506: AI LiDAR Calibration Failure Creality K1 error 506 means the LiDAR answered but could not calibrate. That rules out the cable and puts the lens and the plate at the top of the list. Creality K1 Error 111: Hotend MCU Connection Abnormal Creality K1 error 111 means the link to the hotend controller is abnormal. It is the moving loom far more often than the board, and how to prove that. Creality K1 Error 2532: MCU Synchronisation Wire Fault Creality K1 error 2532 means the sync wire between the two controllers has dropped. It reads like a board failure and is almost always a loose connector. Creality K1 Error 2511: Cavity Temperature Exception Creality K1 error 2511 is a chamber temperature fault. Whether the cavity is genuinely hot or the sensor is lying decides which fix will actually help.
Z offset, flow, pressure advance, input shaper

Calibration

All calibration →
Temps, drying, enclosures, PLA vs PETG vs ASA

Filament

All filament →
Nozzles, plates, hotends — and what fits what

Parts & fit

All parts & fit →
OrcaSlicer, Bambu Studio, Cura, PrusaSlicer

Slicer

All slicer →
Which printer, which AMS, what fits your filaments

Upgrade & buy

All upgrade & buy →