Skip to content
3D Print Troubleshooting, Calibration & Parts

Symptom diagnoser

What went wrong with your print?

Pick the symptom you can see on the plate. Every fix here is written against a specific failure mode, with the settings that actually change it.

3D print troubleshooting by symptom: a part that never stuck is an adhesion fault, gaps and thin lines are extrusion, and an offset part-way up is motion. 3D Print Troubleshooting: Find the Fault by What You Can See What to look for Three cheap things diagnose most of what follows. A tool kit with nozzle needles, tweezers and hex keys… ABS Not Sticking to Bed — A heat problem before an adhesion problem ABS Not Sticking to Bed: Chamber Heat First, Adhesive Second ABS not sticking to bed is a heat problem before it is an adhesion one. Chamber temperature, bed prep that survives 100 degrees, and when a brim is enough. ASA Warping — The enclosure is the fix, not a hotter bed ASA Warping: The Enclosure Is the Fix, Not a Hotter Bed ASA warping is solved by an enclosure, not by pushing the bed hotter. What chamber temperature it needs, why draughts crack layers, and when a brim helps. Diagram of a layer stack showing the seam print defect. Blobs, zits and a visible seam line A small defect where each layer starts and stops, stacked into a visible line. Diagram of a layer stack showing the crack print defect. Cracking and layer delamination Layers separate under load or on their own. Weak bonding from cold plastic or a cold chamber. Diagram showing overhang angle measured from vertical, with the 45 degree rule of thumb and a drooping unsupported edge. Drooping overhangs and failed bridges Plastic sags before it sets. Cooling and slower perimeters do most of the work. Diagram of a layer stack showing the foot print defect. Elephant foot on the bottom layer The first layers bulge outwards. Too much squish plus a bed hotter than it needs to be. Build plate pairings for first layer adhesion: PLA on PEI with no glue, PETG on textured PEI or smooth PEI with glue, ABS and ASA on smooth PEI with glue and a closed enclosure, TPU on textured PEI at low bed temperature. First Layer Not Sticking: What 3D Printer Bed Adhesion Depends On Nine times out of ten the plate is contaminated with skin oil, not badly levelled. Wash it before you touch the Z offset. Diagram of a layer stack showing the shift print defect. Layer shifting partway through a print Everything above a certain height is offset. Belts, grub screws or a speed the machine cannot hold. Diagram of a partially clogged nozzle showing debris restricting the melt zone above the nozzle orifice. Nozzle clogged: partial and complete blockages A partial clog degrades quality gradually; a complete one stops everything. The cold pull handles both. PETG Not Sticking to Bed — Usually the opposite problem to PLA PETG Not Sticking to Bed: Why It Is Usually the Opposite Problem PETG not sticking to bed is rarer than PETG sticking too hard. The nozzle gap it wants, why glue is a release layer here, and the temperatures that work. PETG Stringing — Normal for the material, not a fault PETG Stringing: Why It Strings More Than PLA, and What Fixes It PETG stringing more than PLA is normal, not a fault. Why the material oozes, the retraction numbers that work, and why drying it matters far more here. PLA Not Sticking to Bed — Four causes, in the order worth checking PLA Not Sticking to Bed: The Four Causes, in the Order to Check Them PLA not sticking to bed is almost never the filament. Four causes in the order worth checking: bed height, a dirty plate, first-layer speed, and draughts. PLA Stringing — Retraction and temperature, in that order PLA Stringing: Why Dry PLA Still Strings, and the Settings That Stop It PLA stringing is retraction and temperature, in that order, and dry filament still strings if the settings are wrong. A test you can run in eight minutes. PLA Warping — Uncommon enough to be a clue in itself PLA Warping: Rare Enough to Be a Clue in Itself PLA warping is uncommon enough to be a clue in itself: it points at a draught, a cold bed or a tall thin part, not at bad filament. What to change, in order. Diagram of a layer stack showing the detach print defect. Print detached mid-print and turned into spaghetti The part came off the plate and the nozzle kept extruding into air. Adhesion, warping or a knock. Diagram of a layer stack showing the ring print defect. Ringing and ghosting on vertical surfaces Echoes of a corner repeating across the wall. Mechanical vibration the frame cannot damp fast enough. Drying temperatures to cure stringing: PLA 4 hours at 55 C, PETG 4 hours at 65 C, ABS and ASA 4 hours at 80 C, TPU 6 hours at 55 C. Stringing and oozing between parts Fine hairs across gaps. Moisture first, temperature second, retraction third — in that order.
Not a print defect? Error codes  ·  Calibration  ·  Filament
HMS, MINTEMP, thermal runaway, homing failed

Error codes

All error codes →
Creality K1 Error 2533: Parameter Anomaly, Re-level Creality K1 error 2533 means the stored bed mesh no longer matches the bed. Re-level, then recalibrate the first layer, because Z zero derives from it. Creality K1 Error 2529: Too Many Z Homing Attempts Creality K1 error 2529 means Z homing used all twenty allowed measurements without agreeing. Varying readings point at the tip, the plate or the room. Creality K1 Error 2283: Printer Not Ready Creality K1 error 2283 means the printer is not ready for that command. It is a consequence, so look for the first error of the session, not this one. Creality K1 Error 2095: Must Home First Creality K1 error 2095 means the printer was asked to move before it knew where it was. Homing clears it; the useful question is why position was lost. Creality K1 Error 2019: Target Temperature Out of Range Creality K1 error 2019 means a target temperature fell outside the allowed range. Which end it exceeded tells you whether to look at hardware or scripts. Creality K1 Error 2014: Invalid Slicing Distance Creality K1 error 2014 means a slicing distance was impossible. Check the machine selected in the slicer first, then the profile, then restart and reprint. Creality K1 Error 507: AI LiDAR Alignment Failure Creality K1 error 507 means the LiDAR could not align itself. Alignment is about position, so the mount and the nozzle come before the lens or the cable. Creality K1 Error 112: Hot Bed MCU Connection Abnormal Creality K1 error 112 means the bed controller link is abnormal. That cable does not flex, so heat marks rather than wear marks are what you look for. Creality K1 Error 110: Primary MCU Connection Abnormal Creality K1 error 110 means the main controller link is abnormal. Nothing runs until it is restored, but a connector causes almost all of them, not a board. Creality K1 Error 102: G-code File Name Too Long Creality K1 error 102 means the G-code file name is too long. The model is fine; rename it short and plain and it prints, and here is why it happens at all. Creality K1 Error 2524: Levelling Sensor Noise Too High Creality K1 error 2524 means the levelling sensor data was too noisy while stationary. That word makes the room around the printer a genuine suspect too. Creality K1 Error 2512: Main MCU Chip Temperature Abnormal Creality K1 error 2512 means the main controller reported its own temperature as abnormal. The board fan is the first and cheapest thing to check here.
Z offset, flow, pressure advance, input shaper

Calibration

All calibration →
Temps, drying, enclosures, PLA vs PETG vs ASA

Filament

All filament →
Nozzles, plates, hotends — and what fits what

Parts & fit

All parts & fit →
OrcaSlicer, Bambu Studio, Cura, PrusaSlicer

Slicer

All slicer →
Which printer, which AMS, what fits your filaments

Upgrade & buy

All upgrade & buy →