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3D Print Troubleshooting, Calibration & Parts

Symptom diagnoser

What went wrong with your print?

Pick the symptom you can see on the plate. Every fix here is written against a specific failure mode, with the settings that actually change it.

3D print troubleshooting by symptom: a part that never stuck is an adhesion fault, gaps and thin lines are extrusion, and an offset part-way up is motion. 3D Print Troubleshooting: Find the Fault by What You Can See What to look for Three cheap things diagnose most of what follows. A tool kit with nozzle needles, tweezers and hex keys… ABS Not Sticking to Bed — A heat problem before an adhesion problem ABS Not Sticking to Bed: Chamber Heat First, Adhesive Second ABS not sticking to bed is a heat problem before it is an adhesion one. Chamber temperature, bed prep that survives 100 degrees, and when a brim is enough. ASA Warping — The enclosure is the fix, not a hotter bed ASA Warping: The Enclosure Is the Fix, Not a Hotter Bed ASA warping is solved by an enclosure, not by pushing the bed hotter. What chamber temperature it needs, why draughts crack layers, and when a brim helps. Diagram of a layer stack showing the seam print defect. Blobs, zits and a visible seam line A small defect where each layer starts and stops, stacked into a visible line. Diagram of a layer stack showing the crack print defect. Cracking and layer delamination Layers separate under load or on their own. Weak bonding from cold plastic or a cold chamber. Diagram showing overhang angle measured from vertical, with the 45 degree rule of thumb and a drooping unsupported edge. Drooping overhangs and failed bridges Plastic sags before it sets. Cooling and slower perimeters do most of the work. Diagram of a layer stack showing the foot print defect. Elephant foot on the bottom layer The first layers bulge outwards. Too much squish plus a bed hotter than it needs to be. Build plate pairings for first layer adhesion: PLA on PEI with no glue, PETG on textured PEI or smooth PEI with glue, ABS and ASA on smooth PEI with glue and a closed enclosure, TPU on textured PEI at low bed temperature. First Layer Not Sticking: What 3D Printer Bed Adhesion Depends On Nine times out of ten the plate is contaminated with skin oil, not badly levelled. Wash it before you touch the Z offset. Diagram of a layer stack showing the shift print defect. Layer shifting partway through a print Everything above a certain height is offset. Belts, grub screws or a speed the machine cannot hold. Diagram of a partially clogged nozzle showing debris restricting the melt zone above the nozzle orifice. Nozzle clogged: partial and complete blockages A partial clog degrades quality gradually; a complete one stops everything. The cold pull handles both. PETG Not Sticking to Bed — Usually the opposite problem to PLA PETG Not Sticking to Bed: Why It Is Usually the Opposite Problem PETG not sticking to bed is rarer than PETG sticking too hard. The nozzle gap it wants, why glue is a release layer here, and the temperatures that work. PETG Stringing — Normal for the material, not a fault PETG Stringing: Why It Strings More Than PLA, and What Fixes It PETG stringing more than PLA is normal, not a fault. Why the material oozes, the retraction numbers that work, and why drying it matters far more here. PLA Not Sticking to Bed — Four causes, in the order worth checking PLA Not Sticking to Bed: The Four Causes, in the Order to Check Them PLA not sticking to bed is almost never the filament. Four causes in the order worth checking: bed height, a dirty plate, first-layer speed, and draughts. PLA Stringing — Retraction and temperature, in that order PLA Stringing: Why Dry PLA Still Strings, and the Settings That Stop It PLA stringing is retraction and temperature, in that order, and dry filament still strings if the settings are wrong. A test you can run in eight minutes. PLA Warping — Uncommon enough to be a clue in itself PLA Warping: Rare Enough to Be a Clue in Itself PLA warping is uncommon enough to be a clue in itself: it points at a draught, a cold bed or a tall thin part, not at bad filament. What to change, in order. Diagram of a layer stack showing the detach print defect. Print detached mid-print and turned into spaghetti The part came off the plate and the nozzle kept extruding into air. Adhesion, warping or a knock. Diagram of a layer stack showing the ring print defect. Ringing and ghosting on vertical surfaces Echoes of a corner repeating across the wall. Mechanical vibration the frame cannot damp fast enough. Drying temperatures to cure stringing: PLA 4 hours at 55 C, PETG 4 hours at 65 C, ABS and ASA 4 hours at 80 C, TPU 6 hours at 55 C. Stringing and oozing between parts Fine hairs across gaps. Moisture first, temperature second, retraction third — in that order.
Not a print defect? Error codes  ·  Calibration  ·  Filament
HMS, MINTEMP, thermal runaway, homing failed

Error codes

All error codes →
HMS 0300-2500-0001-000B: right extruder nozzle not detected HMS 0300-2500-0001-000B means the right nozzle is not detected. Either it is missing, or residue in the seat is holding it proud. How to check for both. HMS 0300-0D00-0001-000C: heatbed levelling data abnormal HMS 0300-0D00-0001-000C means the levelling data is abnormal and asks you to look for debris. Where it hides, and why cleaning beats re-running the mesh. HMS 0300-9300-0001-0005: chamber sensor at the heater air inlet HMS 0300-9300-0001-0005 points at the chamber temperature sensor on the air inlet side. Why inlet and outlet sensors fail differently, and how to test it. HMS 0300-9000-0001-0004: chamber heating failed, heating fan too slow HMS 0300-9000-0001-0004 means chamber heating failed because the heating fan is too slow. Without airflow the element cooks while the chamber stays cold. HMS 0300-9100-0001-0007: chamber heater 1 sensor open circuit HMS 0300-9100-0001-0007 means the chamber heater 1 sensor reads as open. Where that sensor sits, what it should measure, and what replacing it involves. HMS 0300-2500-0001-0005: Z axis motor rotation obstructed HMS 0300-2500-0001-0005 means the Z axis motor is obstructed. What gets into the Z path, and how to tell an obstruction from a motor that is truly failing. HMS 0300-2500-0001-000A: nozzle offset calibration failed, filament on the nozzle HMS 0300-2500-0001-000A means offset calibration failed because filament is stuck to a nozzle. How to clean it warm, and why cold cleaning tears the sock. HMS 0300-1E00-0001-0003: left nozzle heater over temperature HMS 0300-1E00-0001-0003 means the left nozzle ran over temperature. What makes a hotend overshoot, and why a missing silicone sock is the common cause. HMS 0300-1E00-0001-0002: left nozzle heater open circuit HMS 0300-1E00-0001-0002 means the left nozzle heater reads as disconnected. The connector comes before the cartridge, and how to tell the two of them apart. HMS 0300-1E00-0001-0001: left nozzle heater short circuit HMS 0300-1E00-0001-0001 means the left nozzle heater is drawing too much current. How to measure the cartridge, and which hotend assembly replaces it. HMS 0300-0D00-0001-0003: the build plate may not be properly placed HMS 0300-0D00-0001-0003 means the build plate may not be seated. How to refit it square, and what to check when that message keeps coming back at you. HMS 0300-0D00-0001-0002: heatbed homing failed from vibration HMS 0300-0D00-0001-0002 means bed homing failed because of vibration. What the printer is standing on matters more than anything inside the machine here.
Z offset, flow, pressure advance, input shaper

Calibration

All calibration →
Temps, drying, enclosures, PLA vs PETG vs ASA

Filament

All filament →
Nozzles, plates, hotends — and what fits what

Parts & fit

All parts & fit →
OrcaSlicer, Bambu Studio, Cura, PrusaSlicer

Slicer

All slicer →
Which printer, which AMS, what fits your filaments

Upgrade & buy

All upgrade & buy →