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3D Print Troubleshooting, Calibration & Parts

Symptom diagnoser

What went wrong with your print?

Pick the symptom you can see on the plate. Every fix here is written against a specific failure mode, with the settings that actually change it.

3D print troubleshooting by symptom: a part that never stuck is an adhesion fault, gaps and thin lines are extrusion, and an offset part-way up is motion. 3D Print Troubleshooting: Find the Fault by What You Can See What to look for Three cheap things diagnose most of what follows. A tool kit with nozzle needles, tweezers and hex keys… ABS Not Sticking to Bed — A heat problem before an adhesion problem ABS Not Sticking to Bed: Chamber Heat First, Adhesive Second ABS not sticking to bed is a heat problem before it is an adhesion one. Chamber temperature, bed prep that survives 100 degrees, and when a brim is enough. ASA Warping — The enclosure is the fix, not a hotter bed ASA Warping: The Enclosure Is the Fix, Not a Hotter Bed ASA warping is solved by an enclosure, not by pushing the bed hotter. What chamber temperature it needs, why draughts crack layers, and when a brim helps. Diagram of a layer stack showing the seam print defect. Blobs, zits and a visible seam line A small defect where each layer starts and stops, stacked into a visible line. Diagram of a layer stack showing the crack print defect. Cracking and layer delamination Layers separate under load or on their own. Weak bonding from cold plastic or a cold chamber. Diagram showing overhang angle measured from vertical, with the 45 degree rule of thumb and a drooping unsupported edge. Drooping overhangs and failed bridges Plastic sags before it sets. Cooling and slower perimeters do most of the work. Diagram of a layer stack showing the foot print defect. Elephant foot on the bottom layer The first layers bulge outwards. Too much squish plus a bed hotter than it needs to be. Build plate pairings for first layer adhesion: PLA on PEI with no glue, PETG on textured PEI or smooth PEI with glue, ABS and ASA on smooth PEI with glue and a closed enclosure, TPU on textured PEI at low bed temperature. First Layer Not Sticking: What 3D Printer Bed Adhesion Depends On Nine times out of ten the plate is contaminated with skin oil, not badly levelled. Wash it before you touch the Z offset. Diagram of a layer stack showing the shift print defect. Layer shifting partway through a print Everything above a certain height is offset. Belts, grub screws or a speed the machine cannot hold. Diagram of a partially clogged nozzle showing debris restricting the melt zone above the nozzle orifice. Nozzle clogged: partial and complete blockages A partial clog degrades quality gradually; a complete one stops everything. The cold pull handles both. PETG Not Sticking to Bed — Usually the opposite problem to PLA PETG Not Sticking to Bed: Why It Is Usually the Opposite Problem PETG not sticking to bed is rarer than PETG sticking too hard. The nozzle gap it wants, why glue is a release layer here, and the temperatures that work. PETG Stringing — Normal for the material, not a fault PETG Stringing: Why It Strings More Than PLA, and What Fixes It PETG stringing more than PLA is normal, not a fault. Why the material oozes, the retraction numbers that work, and why drying it matters far more here. PLA Not Sticking to Bed — Four causes, in the order worth checking PLA Not Sticking to Bed: The Four Causes, in the Order to Check Them PLA not sticking to bed is almost never the filament. Four causes in the order worth checking: bed height, a dirty plate, first-layer speed, and draughts. PLA Stringing — Retraction and temperature, in that order PLA Stringing: Why Dry PLA Still Strings, and the Settings That Stop It PLA stringing is retraction and temperature, in that order, and dry filament still strings if the settings are wrong. A test you can run in eight minutes. PLA Warping — Uncommon enough to be a clue in itself PLA Warping: Rare Enough to Be a Clue in Itself PLA warping is uncommon enough to be a clue in itself: it points at a draught, a cold bed or a tall thin part, not at bad filament. What to change, in order. Diagram of a layer stack showing the detach print defect. Print detached mid-print and turned into spaghetti The part came off the plate and the nozzle kept extruding into air. Adhesion, warping or a knock. Diagram of a layer stack showing the ring print defect. Ringing and ghosting on vertical surfaces Echoes of a corner repeating across the wall. Mechanical vibration the frame cannot damp fast enough. Drying temperatures to cure stringing: PLA 4 hours at 55 C, PETG 4 hours at 65 C, ABS and ASA 4 hours at 80 C, TPU 6 hours at 55 C. Stringing and oozing between parts Fine hairs across gaps. Moisture first, temperature second, retraction third — in that order.
Not a print defect? Error codes  ·  Calibration  ·  Filament
HMS, MINTEMP, thermal runaway, homing failed

Error codes

All error codes →
Prusa Error 13854: Incompatible Filament for This Print Prusa error 13854 means the filament does not match the profile in the sliced file. Why the printer checks, and when overriding it is actually reasonable. Prusa Error 13833: Bed Levelling Failed, Try Again Prusa error 13833 means bed levelling failed and the printer is offering to retry. What it was measuring, why retrying often works, and when it will not. Prusa Error 31260: Chamber Overheating on the CORE One Prusa error 31260 means the CORE One chamber is above its safety limit. Ventilation, ambient temperature, and why an enclosed printer needs airflow out. Prusa Error 13324: Display Problem Detected Prusa error 13324 means the printer detected display problems and offers to lower the refresh rate. What that actually fixes, and when the cable is at fault. Prusa Error 13309: Input Port Overcurrent on the xBuddy Board Prusa error 13309 is overcurrent on the xBuddy input port. Disconnect whatever you just plugged in, then work out which accessory is drawing too much. Prusa Error 13206: Print Head MAXTEMP, a Shorted Wire Prusa error 13206 means the print head thermistor read above its maximum. Almost always a shorted wire at the head rather than a genuinely overheating nozzle. Prusa Error 13207: Heatbed MINTEMP, an Open Circuit Prusa error 13207 means the heatbed thermistor read below its minimum, which is an open circuit rather than a cold bed. Where the break usually turns out to be. Prusa Error 13321: Power Panic Detected on Startup Prusa error 13321 is a power panic fault detected at startup. What the power panic circuit does, why it matters, and the cable that is usually the culprit. Prusa Error 13308: Nozzle Heater Overcurrent Prusa error 13308 means overcurrent on the nozzle heater. It is an electrical fault, not a temperature one: a shorted cartridge or a chafed wire at the head. Prusa Error 13301: Z Homing Failed, and the Loadcell Prusa error 13301 is a Z homing failure, and on an MK4 it points at the loadcell rather than an endstop. What that sensor does and why it stops working. Prusa Error 13305: Homing Error on the Y Axis Prusa error 13305 is a homing failure on the Y axis, which on a bed-slinger means the bed itself. Obstructions, belt tension and rail cleanliness, in order. Prusa Error 13304: Homing Error on the X Axis Prusa error 13304 is a homing failure on the X axis. Something is blocking the carriage, the belt has gone slack, or a pulley grub screw has worked loose.
Z offset, flow, pressure advance, input shaper

Calibration

All calibration →
Temps, drying, enclosures, PLA vs PETG vs ASA

Filament

All filament →
Nozzles, plates, hotends — and what fits what

Parts & fit

All parts & fit →
OrcaSlicer, Bambu Studio, Cura, PrusaSlicer

Slicer

All slicer →
Which printer, which AMS, what fits your filaments

Upgrade & buy

All upgrade & buy →