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3D Print Troubleshooting, Calibration & Parts

Symptom diagnoser

What went wrong with your print?

Pick the symptom you can see on the plate. Every fix here is written against a specific failure mode, with the settings that actually change it.

3D print troubleshooting by symptom: a part that never stuck is an adhesion fault, gaps and thin lines are extrusion, and an offset part-way up is motion. 3D Print Troubleshooting: Find the Fault by What You Can See What to look for Three cheap things diagnose most of what follows. A tool kit with nozzle needles, tweezers and hex keys… ABS Not Sticking to Bed — A heat problem before an adhesion problem ABS Not Sticking to Bed: Chamber Heat First, Adhesive Second ABS not sticking to bed is a heat problem before it is an adhesion one. Chamber temperature, bed prep that survives 100 degrees, and when a brim is enough. ASA Warping — The enclosure is the fix, not a hotter bed ASA Warping: The Enclosure Is the Fix, Not a Hotter Bed ASA warping is solved by an enclosure, not by pushing the bed hotter. What chamber temperature it needs, why draughts crack layers, and when a brim helps. Diagram of a layer stack showing the seam print defect. Blobs, zits and a visible seam line A small defect where each layer starts and stops, stacked into a visible line. Diagram of a layer stack showing the crack print defect. Cracking and layer delamination Layers separate under load or on their own. Weak bonding from cold plastic or a cold chamber. Diagram showing overhang angle measured from vertical, with the 45 degree rule of thumb and a drooping unsupported edge. Drooping overhangs and failed bridges Plastic sags before it sets. Cooling and slower perimeters do most of the work. Diagram of a layer stack showing the foot print defect. Elephant foot on the bottom layer The first layers bulge outwards. Too much squish plus a bed hotter than it needs to be. Build plate pairings for first layer adhesion: PLA on PEI with no glue, PETG on textured PEI or smooth PEI with glue, ABS and ASA on smooth PEI with glue and a closed enclosure, TPU on textured PEI at low bed temperature. First Layer Not Sticking: What 3D Printer Bed Adhesion Depends On Nine times out of ten the plate is contaminated with skin oil, not badly levelled. Wash it before you touch the Z offset. Diagram of a layer stack showing the shift print defect. Layer shifting partway through a print Everything above a certain height is offset. Belts, grub screws or a speed the machine cannot hold. Diagram of a partially clogged nozzle showing debris restricting the melt zone above the nozzle orifice. Nozzle clogged: partial and complete blockages A partial clog degrades quality gradually; a complete one stops everything. The cold pull handles both. PETG Not Sticking to Bed — Usually the opposite problem to PLA PETG Not Sticking to Bed: Why It Is Usually the Opposite Problem PETG not sticking to bed is rarer than PETG sticking too hard. The nozzle gap it wants, why glue is a release layer here, and the temperatures that work. PETG Stringing — Normal for the material, not a fault PETG Stringing: Why It Strings More Than PLA, and What Fixes It PETG stringing more than PLA is normal, not a fault. Why the material oozes, the retraction numbers that work, and why drying it matters far more here. PLA Not Sticking to Bed — Four causes, in the order worth checking PLA Not Sticking to Bed: The Four Causes, in the Order to Check Them PLA not sticking to bed is almost never the filament. Four causes in the order worth checking: bed height, a dirty plate, first-layer speed, and draughts. PLA Stringing — Retraction and temperature, in that order PLA Stringing: Why Dry PLA Still Strings, and the Settings That Stop It PLA stringing is retraction and temperature, in that order, and dry filament still strings if the settings are wrong. A test you can run in eight minutes. PLA Warping — Uncommon enough to be a clue in itself PLA Warping: Rare Enough to Be a Clue in Itself PLA warping is uncommon enough to be a clue in itself: it points at a draught, a cold bed or a tall thin part, not at bad filament. What to change, in order. Diagram of a layer stack showing the detach print defect. Print detached mid-print and turned into spaghetti The part came off the plate and the nozzle kept extruding into air. Adhesion, warping or a knock. Diagram of a layer stack showing the ring print defect. Ringing and ghosting on vertical surfaces Echoes of a corner repeating across the wall. Mechanical vibration the frame cannot damp fast enough. Drying temperatures to cure stringing: PLA 4 hours at 55 C, PETG 4 hours at 65 C, ABS and ASA 4 hours at 80 C, TPU 6 hours at 55 C. Stringing and oozing between parts Fine hairs across gaps. Moisture first, temperature second, retraction third — in that order.
Not a print defect? Error codes  ·  Calibration  ·  Filament
HMS, MINTEMP, thermal runaway, homing failed

Error codes

All error codes →
HMS 0C00-0300-0002-0002: First Layer Inspection Terminated Due to Abnormal Lidar Data HMS 0C00-0300-0002-0002 means the first-layer scan gave up rather than guessed. Glossy, clear and very dark filaments are the usual reason the data fails. HMS 0C00-0100-0002-0002: Micro Lidar Camera Is Malfunctioning HMS 0C00-0100-0002-0002 means the Micro Lidar camera is faulty. Work through it in order: toolhead connector, then lens, then firmware, then the module itself. HMS 0C00-0100-0001-000A: The Micro Lidar LED May Be Broken HMS 0C00-0100-0001-000A says the Micro Lidar LED may be broken. A lens fogged with purge residue dims the light exactly the same way, so check that first. HMS 0C00-0300-0003-000D: Objects May Have Fallen or the Extruder Is Not Extruding HMS 0C00-0300-0003-000D offers two readings: a part has fallen, or the extruder has stopped. Open the door and look, because only one is worth continuing. HMS 0C00-0300-0003-000F: Nozzle Covered With Jammed or Clogged Material HMS 0C00-0300-0003-000F means the nozzle looks coated in jammed material. One simple test separates a ten-minute outside clean from an internal blockage. HMS 0C00-0300-0002-0010: Foreign Objects Detected on Heatbed HMS 0C00-0300-0002-0010 means the first-layer check saw something on the plate. Real debris, a leftover skirt and printed surface markings all trigger it. HMS 0C00-0200-0002-0009: Vertical Laser Not Bright Enough at Homing HMS 0C00-0200-0002-0009 means the laser return at homing is dim. If it keeps returning, the plate is worn out at that one patch rather than merely dirty. HMS 0C00-0200-0002-0008: Vertical Laser Line Is Too Wide HMS 0C00-0200-0002-0008 means the laser line spread out on the plate. Bambu names the cause itself: a greasy heatbed. Here is how to clean it properly. HMS 0C00-0200-0002-0006: Nozzle Height Seems Too High HMS 0C00-0200-0002-0006 reads your first layer as too thin. A skirt of baked filament on the nozzle tip fakes this far more often than real height does. HMS 0C00-0200-0002-0004: Nozzle Height Seems Too Low HMS 0C00-0200-0002-0004 means the lidar read your first layer as too squashed. Check under the plate and check its flatness before touching the Z offset. HMS 0700-5000-0002-0001: AMS Communication Abnormal HMS 0700-5000-0002-0001 is abnormal AMS communication, and Bambu names the cable. That cable runs outside the machine, so you can see all of it for once. HMS 0700-2000-0002-0003: Filament Broken Inside the AMS HMS 0700-2000-0002-0003 means filament broke inside the AMS rather than in the toolhead. The location is the whole point, and it decides the whole job.
Z offset, flow, pressure advance, input shaper

Calibration

All calibration →
Temps, drying, enclosures, PLA vs PETG vs ASA

Filament

All filament →
Nozzles, plates, hotends — and what fits what

Parts & fit

All parts & fit →
OrcaSlicer, Bambu Studio, Cura, PrusaSlicer

Slicer

All slicer →
Which printer, which AMS, what fits your filaments

Upgrade & buy

All upgrade & buy →